Last year’s summer expedition arrived back too late for details of its exploits to feature in last year’s Shenstonian, but it would be an omission for a record of its achievements not to occur in the archives!
28 students and 7 adult advisers left in early July, flying via Doha to Kathmandu, where culture shock started as we were bedecked with garlands of flowers from our hosts, the Sherpa Society, at the airport. A single night was enough to show what an amazing city the capital of Nepal is, with its contrasting mixture of beautiful temples and extreme poverty. Early the next morning we were back at the airport to load, with luggage, onto 3 18-seater planes for the short flight to Lukla and the start of our trek. Landing on the short uphill runway was an experience in itself and the walk to Ghat gave a first glimpse of the scenery to come.
Over the next fourteen days we trekked over two high passes to Gorak Shep in the Everest region, with over half the party climbing the Kala Patthar ridge (5545m) for a glimpse of the great mountain in the mist.We had too much low cloud for the full scenic splendour of Nepal to be fully enjoyed, but were perhaps all the more struck by its beauty on those mornings when it was clear. Most of the group endured a severe gastric virus at the Tengboche monastery – nicknamed “death lodge” – and it was much to their credit than nobody even considered giving up. It also astonished us how the news of our problems seemed to get to every other group we met on the trails! Part of our route back from Everest was blocked by 6 feet of melting snow, but a lengthy detour allowed some relief, the first part being downhill. The lakes at Gokyo were splendid and we were lucky with a relatively clear morning on which to cross the Renjo La (5340m) on our way back to Namche Bazar, before the final day back out to Lukla.
Tired students and advisers then enjoyed three free days in Kathmandu, recovering whilst exploring the city’s sights and sampling some of its many restaurants.We recorded details of our trek on two large ‘footprints’ left on the wall of the “Rum Doodle” restaurant, where the signatures of Everest climbers adorn the walls.
Flying in to Lhasa from Kathmandu gave the party a chance to see the great Himalaya from the air, and to be struck by the change in the landscape after crossing the mountain range into Tibet. I was staggered by the development of the airport since my last visit 6 years before, and it became clear that a massive building programme of houses and roads has occurred. We saw bridges for the rail link to Chengdu in China as we neared Lhasa city. The old part of the city included the frankly dreadful Banakshol “hotel” where the group were to be put up.
Quaint perhaps, but unsanitary conditions prevailed and it was fortunate both that we were able to move the girls to a different hotel and that we only spent a small amount of time at the hotel. Our sightseeing programme took in all the main temples – you could not fail to be impressed by the Jokhang, Potala, Drepung and Norbulinka, but the highlight in many ways was watching the monks at debate in the garden of the Sera monastery. From Lhasa, we travelled in the relative luxury of land cruisers to the Rongbuk monastery and Everest base camp.
Again there were fears about the visibility of the mountain, given that we had low cloud and even rain on our drive, which included a visit to the second city, Shigatse, with its Tashilumpo monastery. As we were settling into the dire rooms at the monastery lodge, the cloud slowly Shenstonian 51 lifted and the sight and size of the mountain quite overwhelmed us, such that we sat looking at it as the light dimmed.
This highlight was added to by a night at the luxurious Dhulikel Mountain Resort Hotel after our arrival back in Nepal and 16 students added one extra climactic moment by Bungee Jumping off a bridge on the way to this resort. A final frantic day of shopping in Kathmandu culminated in a special Nepali Traditional meal to see us on our way. It was an unforgettable experience. We learnt not just about other cultures, but also about our own ability to handle adversity and meet both physical and mental challenges.
Huge thanks are due to my six fellow advisers, to our excellent agents in the country, appointed by White Peak Expeditions to look after us, and to the student group whose resilience and positive attitude to all obstacles made the expedition the success it was! In 2007 the school sends an expedition group for the first time to Chile, and we wish them every success, knowing the great rewards, which can come from taking on such ventures!
Mr M R Brough.